Any advice on buying a bike?

[Presidentcokedupfratboy]

No, not a motorbike, a bike bike....I mostly run for my exercise, about 20 miles a week. I want to change things up a bit, so I'm thinking of buying a bike I can ride either on the street or on a bike path. I'm about 6'3" 250 pounds, so I'm looking for a sturdy hybrid (at least that's what I'm thinking).

Any advice? And what is the equivalent of one mile of running on a bike?

[lonestarnot]

1. Get a beach comber with fat tires and white sidewalls and shock

absorber on the seat. :P

[babylonsister]

2. Especially for a ...cokedupfratboy!

:rofl:

[lonestarnot]

6. What was that supposed to mean? Do cokedupfratboys like those kind of bikes?

:shrug: He could throw on a peeweehermanhorn and tassles :P

[Romulox]

7. The cokedupfratboy-in-chief has a stable of nice Trek FS's

With clipless pedals and the hole 9! :wow:

So I don't get that comment neither.

[lonestarnot]

8. Oh I see. Snort.

:rofl: Maybe he'd be better off with one of these

[JuniperLea]

31. I was just going to say the same thing...

I wouldn't pay over $200 for one to start out... then if you're into it, go for a three speed cruiser.

Man... I used to ride my Schwinn Wasp to the beach, carrying a massive log of a surfboard! I was one strong surfer chick back in the day! LOL!!!

[nadinbrzezinski]

3. First things first, go to a local store

forget the major box stores, and just did what you plan to do

I got the bike not for exercise but to commute locally

Now if you are going to take it on the trail I'd recommend a mountain bike

Depending on how much you can spend you can get anywhere form a good SWINN, what I got myself, to at Trek or a couple other brands

Since you are a foot taller than me, you will be able to find something that fits, but try several to find one that fits

Oh and get a good helmet and gloves... the gloves are nice to reduce the jolts, and the seat is CRITICAL, how comfy that seat is, how often you will ride,

Oh and local bike stores may have last year models, on sale (looks at mine)

[flvegan]

4. I'm 240 lbs, and my Gary Fisher Sugar has never let me down.

Street or trail.

Well, I broke the frame once, but they replaced it for free. Wasn't my fault. Honest.

You can't really compare 1 mile running v 1 mile on a bike. Too many real world variables.

[rucky]

15. Another vote for Gary Fisher n/t

[Romulox]

5. I would suggest looking into a Surly Long Haul Trucker

Tough as nails and smooth as silk. My wife has one. I ride a Surly Cross Check.

http://www.surlybikes.com/lht_comp.html

My experience with hybrid bikes is that I outgrew mine quickly, and wanted a "real" bike before the end of one season.

"And what is the equivalent of one mile of running on a bike?"

I dunno--bike riding is so much lower impact that it's hard to compare. I am in moderate shape and do 15 miles in a hour 3 or 4 times a week. I think this is still a lot less strenuous than 20 miles of jogging, but your mileage may vary...

[Swamp Rat]

9. Start here:

By all means, this is not the only way to find a bike, but it gives you an idea regarding the range of options (which can be compared to name brand bikes). Nowadays, I prefer to buy a used bike real cheap that has a very good frame and as many useable components as possible, then I renovate it. This way you can save hundreds, if not thousands of dollars. We have used bike co-opts here in New Orleans. I got a free Specialized Hardrock bike (below) that is worth about $150.00 that I plan to turn into an electric hybrid. Also, check Craig's List for your area. College students often sell their bikes after they graduate.

For help on how to choose the proper fit and bike size:
http://www.performancebike.com/help/howto.cfm

Cross/Comfort Bicycles:
http://www.performancebike.com/shop/sub_cat.cfm?subcategory_id=3060

Mountain Bicycles
http://www.performancebike.com/shop/sub_cat.cfm?subcategory_id=3050

Road Bicycles:
http://www.performancebike.com/shop/sub_cat.cfm?subcategory_id=3040

Another good website:
http://www.nashbar.com

[nadinbrzezinski]

11. I can vouche for Performance Bikes

I got mine from their storefront here in So Cal... last year's model

I am short and woman, so it proved interesting to find one

And I love the damn thing... putting miles under it every day

[Romulox]

12. Third on Performance--I have an ordering pending with them right now!

Also, http://www.jensonusa.com/ is excellent.



However, I would hesitate to buy my first bike online...you pretty much need to know what size you need before ordering, which is tricky.

[nadinbrzezinski]

13. That is why I enjoyed shopping at the store front

they are based here in San Diego

The first store had a hybrid that I fell in love with, but was a tad too tall still

The second store had a mountain frame that fit me LIKE A GLOVE.. hell even the seat is comfy as can be! And their terry cloth gloves are GREAT

It took two weeks of going to stores and testing them ahem for size.

And you are right, I'd not buy a bike online if this is the first bike in a while

[Romulox]

25. Lucky duck! To me, Performance is a mere website...

I'm glad you got a bike that fit you correctly. When a bike fits well, it starts to feel like an extension of your person... What a fantastic hobby! :)

[nadinbrzezinski]

26. For us it is the economy stupid, I bike to places

like the local store, the local coffee shop, hubby drives the car and by parking the truck, the bike already paid for itself

I mean this week we actually put gas in both hybrid and truck, and that was 95 bucks total.

But that cost is a once a month occurrence now, not every week or so

Hey and I get my exercise to boot

;-)

[bananas]

51. Don't forget the Saran Wrap and Duct Tape

to deal with road rash.

[ToeBot]

10. Specialized, a Crosstrail if you prefer mountain bike gearing, a Sirrus for road gearing

If you want a bike with an aggressive road configuration, I'd recommend a Sequoia. It's my experience that none of these aluminum alloy frames and composites hold up as well as the old steel's, but you can't buy what they don't sell.

[eridani]

14. Consider your terrain as well

At 250, you are going to need lower gearing for reasonable comfort with hill-climbing. If your terrain is flat, this makes much less difference.

[tomreedtoon]

16. Stock up on bruise ointment, sunscreen, insect repellant.

You'll need all three. The first, of course, when someone shoves you off your bike and steals it. The other two for the long walk home, to protect from sunburn and insects.

I used to ride a bicycle years ago. After a few were stolen, I gave up. The street folks decided I didn't deserve to own a bike, and who can argue with bolt cutters, fists and knives?

[readmoreoften]

18. Damn. Where the hell do you live?

[tomreedtoon]

21. The United States. Assault is everywhere.

Why do you think so many used bicycles - not the overpriced yuppie-mobiles mentioned in this article, but bicycles from real people - end up in pawn shops? You don't think people give up those things voluntarily, do you? Good ol' physical assault is everywhere, and is one of the most profitable activities and the most reliable job in the US now.

[Romulox]

24. Assault is a crime against the person. I think you mean robbery or theft. nt

[TheFriendlyAnarchist]

36. Well, when they smack you to knock you off the bike, then it's both

:)

[tomreedtoon]

43. Well, when you shove a rider off the bike while he's on it...

take the bike and kick in the rider's face for good measure, it's assault PLUS robbery and theft, isn't it? I'm not talking about the relatively peaceful thieves that cut your bike chain with a pair of bolt cutters and take your bike. Or the guy who unbolts your wheel and takes the rest of your bike. I'm talking about genuine assault on bike riders.

[Romulox]

61. I dunno...

Common Law assault is the intentional placing someone in fear of an imminent battery, or an attempted battery. A battery is an harmful or offensive touching of the person.

In a legal sense, when most people speak of "assault", they mean "battery".

Robbery is a taking of property from the person with the intent to deprive the owner of possession by means of threats or physical force.

What you describe sounds like a robbery possibly coupled with a battery. Of course, all this is essentially theoretical, since these sorts of crimes are usually covered by the statutes of your individual state.

Sorry for the egghead response! ;) And I'm sorry you've been intimidated away from cycling. I admit that would probably be enough to put me off too. Even though I live outside of "murder city" (Detroit,) and spend a large portion of my days there, I haven't been a victim of any sort of physical crime since I was kid getting into fights after school. Lucky, I guess. :shrug:

[nadinbrzezinski]

28. Sorry to point this out, but the bike I am riding is NOT an overpriced

yuppie thing...

Why this hate for others I don't get it

[tomreedtoon]

44. Because you have money and they don't. Understand now?

If you didn't buy a used bike from a pawn shop (where, by the way, it probably was pawned by a thief) for $50 or less, you have an expensive bike. If it doesn't look used and beat up, it WILL be stolen. And if you're on the bike at the time, you WILL be assaulted. Welcome to real life on the streets.

[nadinbrzezinski]

45. Welcome to real life in the streets

the bike is not overpriced since it wasn't that expensive

and just because you were unlucky does not mean the rest of us will

Thank you for your concern

By the way... my bike is far from expensive, but I am sure you know how much I paid for it

I guess we have a small subgroup here on DU who are a tad bitter

By the way real life in the streets also requires being street smart, try it sometimes.. and as a medic I had to learn FAST

[Eurobabe]

47. yeah, wow, bitter...

i am thankful for every day that i don't live in the us anymore. i can actually leave my expensive "yuppie bike" unlocked in my hometown and no one bothers it. :shrug:

[nadinbrzezinski]

48. Good, then I should remind you of this

whatever heaven you moved to will change

speaking from experience

The US I moved to is no longer the same place

And yes, BITTER

[Eurobabe]

54. I doubt it, I live so far out in the sticks

that the neighbors know when you take a shower. Things are seldomly stolen here.

My bitter comments were not aimed at you, but the person heckling and the yuppie elitist bike remark. :hi:

[Romulox]

62. Mine are.

I will admit to being a yuppie (though I came up in a blue collar family.)

Having a nice bike is not something I am ashamed of, especially not when people pour money into Lexuses, BMWs, etc. etc. My little four-banger wagon that I lug my bikes around on is paid off, so the fact that I have a couple $1500 bikes on top of a $600 carrier does not make me feel guilty in the least.

My neighbor, who works heating/cooling runs off every weekend with his X-tend-O cab to ride four wheelers around. I couldn't buy the trailer he hauls those things around on for what my bikes cost, let alone the $3-$6 grand each one of those things cost! Then there's the gas for all the gear, @ $4.00/gallon. :wow:

[hfojvt]

37. it's never been my experience

and I have over 25,000 miles on my bike. I used to ride very cheap huffys - in fact rode one into the ground with about 8,000 miles in 3 summers - it was done. One of my econ professors who biked to work every day told me a more expensive bike is a better value, so I went up to a $300 Trek. It was a much nicer ride, so I never went back to the Huffy. It only lasted about ten years though, so I am not sure about the value.

[CBGLuthier]

57. real people?

"street people"

You use a lot of labels for a progressive web site.

[Skittles]

17. try to do both running and biking

biking is great for the heart but it is not weight-bearing

[tinrobot]

34. But running can be very hard on your knees

Particularly if you're 6'3" and 250 like he is.

I'm 6'3" and 240. Running doesn't agree with my feet/knees at all.

[old mark]

19. make sure it fits well

it is easy to hurt your back with a bike that is not right for your size.


mark

[jmowreader]

20. Find someone who knows how to fit a bike

A $100 beater that fits will be more fun than a $2000 bike that doesn't.

[Binka]

22. Buy The Kona Africa Bike

Very special indeed!



http://www.konaworld.com/08_africabike3_w.htm

[comtec]

50. OMA FIETS!!!!!!!

Thats dutch for grandma('s) Bike
One speed, drum brake model.
in a flat country like holland (where that bike is originally from) it's fine.
Probably would kill you in any kind of mountainous region tho.

[bananas]

52. No gears? Only if you live in the flatlands. nt

[Binka]

68. You Can Purchase The Model With Three Gears

The cool thing is for every bike sold Kona donates the same bike to an Aids worker in Africa! The bike is fabulous!

[DS1]

23. bling that motha out

[noonwitch]

27. I swear by Schwinn's Varsity 10 speed

It got me around pretty good from the ages of 12-16.

[Iggo]

29. Advice.

The older you are, the more likely you're going to want a bigger, wider, softer seat to accomodate your...um...needs.

[Romulox]

30. Brooks. There is simply no substitute. Get it from Wallbike.

http://www.wallbike.com/

[tinrobot]

32. Agreed

Soft seats don't support you in all the "right" places, the extra padding is actually a detriment because it presses against the wrong places.

The Brooks saddles don't look comfy, but they support you in all the right places. I can ride a 100 miles on one (and have)

[Iggo]

41. I went to the Scwinn shop after work today...

...and they're right about the soft seats. I tried 'em and could easily imagine back troubles in my future.

Still, the wide seats are better. But firm, baby. Firm.

[nadinbrzezinski]

46. Mine came with a TUNED seat as standard equipment

I've done a max of six miles on it... I use it for local commutes

And I have yet to find it to be a problem

In fact, I am in love with this bike and bike every day

[Romulox]

64. What kinda bike is it, Nadin? nt

[tinrobot]

33. Whatever bike you buy, be sure to get strong wheels.

I'm almost exactly your size and I have three bikes - a road bike, a flat bar road/hybrid, and a mountain bike. They're all steel and they all ride great. I think you'd be fine on any bike, though if you're going for a hybrid, look at flat bar road bikes. They don't have those heavy shock absorbers up front so they're lighter and faster.

The only problem I've ever had with my bikes is that I tend to break spokes and wheels because I'm heavier. As soon as I switched to good 32 spoke wheels, the spoke/wheel problems went away. So I'd give you the same advice - strong wheels over light wheels and you'll be fine.

[TheFriendlyAnarchist]

35. Recumbents are really fun.

You really have to try them out though and get a feel for which one you like best.

[dysfunctional press]

39. i would absolutely NEVER ride one of those ANYWHERE where there are cars...

someone ought to tell those people that those little flags don't do jackshit as far as making you noticeable to vehicles.

[TheFriendlyAnarchist]

42. There are alot of them that are regular sized, or even larger than other bikes.

However, you do have reduced manuevering capabilities.

[Bigmack]

38. Wife and I ride Giant Yukons with off road tires...

during the winter in desert SoCal, and Trek hybrids in the spring, summer and fall in the NW... hills in both places. Big hills in the NW.

First... Helmet, helmet, helmet. Wife took a spill that would have killed her w/o the helmet. We do over 3000 miles a year, and the spill happened about a block from the house.

Buy local and from a trustworthy shop. You'll be having work done on it, and the repairs and tune-ups will be fewer and cheaper than by saving a few bucks buying from Mall-Wart.

If you are large, like me (I think of myself as a Clydesdale rather than a quarterhorse), get big spokes and lots of them on your rear wheel. I carry my big ass, tools, a box with an 18 lb dog, water, a golf club, bear spray, wasp spray, and a 9mm, so I need a stout rear wheel.

Start slowly and learn how to tackle hills and gravel.

Try to ride every day at first... build up the endorphins.

[bullwinkle428]

59. I've got a Giant Yukon myself! It runs on road tires, as

I tried some off-road stuff the first year I had the bike, and didn't care much for that. I just prefer staying on the roads these days, and like the comfortable riding position of the mountain bike...

[Bigmack]

60. With the Yukon....

we found that fatter tires gave us more traction and comfort off-road. I gotta admit that we don't do all that crazy off-road stuff.... we stick to the jeep roads. In the desert in SoCal, the heat cracks the blacktop, and the larger tires soften the lumps and give us more comfort.

We like the more upright posture, too. We both have long handlebar stems that put us pretty much upright. Not very aerodynamic, but comfortable.

[riverdeep]

40. A cyclo cross bike or a touring bike. Preferably steel.

I bought a hybrid after a spell of not biking, and found I hated the damn thing. I was scared of being hunched over and thought it would be more uncomfortable on a road style bike, so I went for the hybrid. Hybrid and mountain bikes were all the rage, as well. Well, I could only manage a half hour each time before I wanted to get off, not because I was tired, but because I was sore and stiff. With a hybrid, you don't have many hand positions, and you're sitting upright, all your weight is on the saddle (except when you stand on the pedals), and your legs (especially your quads) are doing all the work. With a road position, you can shift your hands around and shift your weight, and you put more of your whole body into the pedaling motion using the bars as a counterbalance to your pedaling. Not to mention hybrids and mountain bikes are hell in headwinds and heavy. There's nothing like going up a seemingly endless hill with a 35 pound hybrid or mountain bike (hybrids usually weigh a bit less) in a headwind, quads burning, butt aching.

Cyclo-cross bikes are like road bikes but tougher, have a higher bottom bracket for clearing tall grass, with fatter tires meant for rough terrain but they also work great on the street, especially as commuters:


(it's a crazy sport)

Touring bikes are like road bikes but with a more laid-back position and a longer wheelbase for more stability in wind gusts and such, and tougher as well. Obviously, you can carry loads and go on light trails.



Most true road bikes aren't going to be able to take the punishment of your weight and maybe your choice of trail, but there are probably some. Like someone said, get hardy wheels.

Call up a local bike shop to check out what they have, usually they have something in a variety of prices, and then ride a few. Let them fit you, but if you're really uncomfortable with the fit, don't let them pressure you that that's the 'correct' size. You can adjust the stem and seat for a more relaxed position at first, and then go more aerodynamic if the mood hits later. If you just have to have a mountain or hybrid, that's cool. At least you're sure now. I prefer steel, aluminum is good, but a harsher ride. I stay away from carbon, personally. Buying used is okay, a bargain, but only you if know bikes and know your fit and what you want.

For more info, go to this section of a bike forum site (the Clydesdales section):

http://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php?s=7796e36e546cce352948e0aea1f38dcc&f=248

[bean fidhleir]

49. I'm a utility cyclist, and have a winter bike and a summer bike

Both are steel-framed, both were bought used. The winter bike is an '95 off-road 21-speed with indexed shifting. It started out with Shimano "Alivio" (mid-grade) parts, but I replaced the brakes and derailers with high-grade used parts bought on ebay. They work much better! It has a rear rack and panniers and I plan to install a front rack and more panniers. I have wide knobby tires for snow, but run narrower semi-slicks almost all the time because of how little snow we're now getting, even in western Mass. Semi-slicks provide much lower rolling resistance than knobbies do. My handlebars are 5-inch risers on a Kalloy adjustable stem and a stem-extender.

My summer bike is an elderly ('84) tourer, 15 speeds, friction shifting. It started out with the standard, stupid drop bars and shift levers mounted on the downtube as though for racing. Now it has front and rear racks and panniers, and (different) shift levers mounted on North Road touring handlebars, a 250mm stump-neck stem, and a stem extender. It's very elegant-looking.

I'd suggest you get a good medium-or-better quality bike from a real bike shop. Or even craigslist or ebay. Don't buy one with cheap derailers and other parts, and don't buy a brand that's sold at non-bike shops. Then set it up so that you can ride fully upright, no pressure on your hands. It's the riders who lean over their top tubes and handlebars as though they're racing who get the problems with genital nerve damage and who buy the fancy saddles with "soft tissue cutouts" in hope that will save them. You'd think they'd make the connection, but for some people fantasy trumps reality every time.

I started cycling for transportation while living in Europe nearly 50 years ago. Everyone there rode upright because nobody was pretending they were doing anything but getting from A to B cheaply and comfortably. So that's how I ride still, and have had to do a lot of add-ons (the stems and stem extenders) and fooling around to compensate for the too-long top tubes/too-short head tubes of current bikes. Upright, I can comfortably ride for hours at 3X to 4X my best walking speed, carry cargo, and enjoy the scenery. If that's not the whole point then I can't imagine what would be.

Hope that helps.

[Ms. Toad]

55. Agreed - 50%

>>I'd suggest you get a good medium-or-better quality bike from a real bike shop. Or even craigslist or ebay. Don't buy one with cheap derailers and other parts, and don't buy a brand that's sold at non-bike shops.<<

Absolutely agree. If you can't afford a quality bike new, go for a used quality bike rather than cheaper one sold at Wally World, or its equivalent. Poorly made bikes are not fun to ride because they do not work well.

>>Then set it up so that you can ride fully upright, no pressure on your hands. It's the riders who lean over their top tubes and handlebars as though they're racing who get the problems with genital nerve damage and who buy the fancy saddles with "soft tissue cutouts" in hope that will save them. You'd think they'd make the connection, but for some people fantasy trumps reality every time.<<

My fantasy is pretty darn good, then. I ride a touring bike, up to 100 miles at a stretch, with one of them "fancy saddles with 'soft tissue cutouts.'" With my old seat without a cutout I used to get soft tissue ulcers on longer rides (although no genital nerve damage) - guess I'll just enjoy the fantasy that I'm not not getting them anymore.

Seriously, different riding styles work differently for different folks. I'd never suggest my spouse or my daughter get drop handlebars - neither of them have the inclination or skill level to have good control in any position but upright. I suspect that at 51, this will be my last touring/road bike. I gave up my first real bike a couple of years ago because my back got too cranky for the shifters on the tubes (which should give you some indication as to how long I rode it). That bike was purchased as a commuter bike, although I started doing longer distances with it in the early 90s. By the time I'm ready to replace my new bike in another 15 years or so, my back or my balance may require a more upright position. At any rate, I've been riding this way for 30+ years on point A to point B trips, as well as longer distances, without any sign of genital nerve damage.

Try out bikes with different riding styles to see what feels best. Although it is probably more likely that a new rider will feel more comfortable with an upright it's not necessarily the case. It really has nothing to do with pretending you're doing something other than getting from point A to point B - it has to do with finding riding style matches your body type and skills. For the same reasons you should buy a quality bike, you should also buy one that allows you to ride in a style you are comfortable riding in - if it isn't fun, you won't ride.

[bean fidhleir]

56. I obviously (I hope obviously) agree that everyone should do what suits them best

But...and I'm asking purely out of curiosity...what do you believe you get out of leaning over your drop bars, shifting hand positions as they get sore, etc? More speed? More exercize? A sense of mastery? A sense of doing it "right"? Something else?


(Oh, and the "fantasy" to which I referred was the fantasy that the crouched, streamlined riding position is dictated by the goal of winning the race, not that a cutout saddle helps is a fantasy since it obviously does)

[riverdeep]

67. Not trying to start an upright vs drop controversy here,

but I'll take a stab at answering. Likewise, I agree everyone should do what works for them.

I'm guessing you ride fairly slow and steady- that's great. Some dolts like me like going fast, on occasion, purely for fun. Other times, I just cruise, taking it in. I'll never be able to drive a formula one car, or even a Porsche on the autobahn. But the feeling a fast bike gives, well, it's a sensation of speed on the edge. But much cheaper. And that's kind of thrilling. Sometimes I need to go fast to cut my commute so I don't have to wake up as early.

As far as the drop style handlebars, I just find them way more comfortable and more efficient. I ride the tops or the brifters more than the drops, actually. But when I do the drops, I don't take it down to modern racing positions. No way, I ride more upright than that. I seem to recall when the first wave of ten-speed mania came around, in the '70s, the seats were at least level with the top of the handlebars, if not lower. Now, I guess it's de rigueur to keep your seat up well over the handlebar, even if you're not racing.

And when you're riding the brifters, it's close to a hybrid position anyway, just that you have more options.

[bean fidhleir]

70. Agreed that we don't need a de-gustibus contro here

And fair enough on cycling for exhilaration. Not at all my cup of tea, but if that's what you're looking for and you're willing to accept the compromises, I'm glad you're finding it.

I'll definitely stick with my 10-15mph "cycling tour of North Cornwall" smell-the-flowers style. :)

[Ms. Toad]

71. A number of things

1. Having the drop bars gives me more positions than not having them - change of position on a long ride is a good thing. If I want to ride more upright, I can. With my current bike, I can even ride completely upright if I want to forego using my hands (not something I recommend unless you are on a paved rural road with no traffic). I also have an aero bar. Without thinking at all, I can name 5 different positions in which I routinely ride - all but one of which permit me to brake and two of which permit me to shift. My spouse's upright, with bar extenders, offers her two positions - only one of which permits her to brake and shift.

2. More efficiency. When I ride in the drops or on the aero bar I can pedal with the same amount of energy at at least one, and sometimes two, gears higher than in my most upright position. (So probably less exercise.)

3. Lower wind resistance. Not such a big deal for trips around town, but on longer rides the less wind resistant profile (smaller surface for the wind to push against) lets me keep going when others are dropping out.

4. Ease of checking traffic behind me. In addition to using my mirror, I look back under my arm and check traffic without rotating my head (and consequently body). From an upright position, I can't look back to double-check what I think I am seeing in my mirror without turning (and risking swerving the bike into oncoming traffic if there happens to be any).

5. Generally it is more comfortable for me. I have one shoulder that gets sore on long rides (the shoulder that prompted me to give up my last bike in favor of shifters on the handlebars - it was really a killer when I had to keep leaning on my left arm every time I needed to shift). I have a lot more than one shoulder that gets sore when I ride upright for long stretches.

6. It's a lot harder to find a 700 C wheel on an upright (the default seems to be the smaller 26" for anything but a road/touring bike). The difference in energy output per mile traveled using 700 C wheel v. a 26" is considerable. (This can, of course, be overcome by careful shopping - and is only an issue as often as you buy a bike.) (Again - not getting more exercise here, but I am getting relatively more speed, I guess. Assuming I pedal at the same rate in the same gear I'm getting about 11% more distance per stroke because of the larger circumference of the tire.)

I'm not trying to win any race. On the 150 mile long 2-day ride I do every year, the "winners" arrive by shortly after 11:00 am on the first day (75 miles in 4 hours). I pedal in between 3:30 and 4:30 (75 miles in between 8 and 9 hours, depending on when I leave within the 1 hour starting window and how bad the wind was that day). Basically, I'm lazy. I consider biking pretty wimpy exercise - one of two wimpy exercises I engage in from time to time. The easier exercise is for me, the more likely I am to actually get off my rear end and do something. The road/touring profile is just more comfortable and more efficient for me - making it more likely I'll go out for a ride.

[Romulox]

63. Steel is the best material for a bike, but I disagree big time about drop bars

The hoods of modern "brifters" (brake levers with built in shifters) designed for drop bars are as comfortable as any handlebars available, and drop bars help alleviate excess strain by providing numerous hand positions.

Mountain bike bars only offer one hand position!!!

[bean fidhleir]

69. But what do you get out of putting yourself in a position where you

have to "alleviate excess strain" that you wouldn't get out of a position that's less stressful?

Sheldon and Andy Muzi have both commented on the fact that nearly all bikes are built and set up for the use of the tiny minority that race, and that everyone else must accommodate *themselves* to the demands of their *bike*. Which seems crazy.

[Ms. Toad]

72. For me there isn't a position that is less stressful

The stress is the result of the length of time sitting on a bike (even with 15 minute breaks every hour or so, 7-9 hours of sitting anywhere where movement is restricted (think a 7-9 hour flight :D).

Frankly, forcing me to sit upright would add to the positional stress because - for me - it is more stressful (and the "racing" position less stressful).

In addition, you all must have some very odd shops in your area. Although it seems to have gotten better recently, when I bought my last bike the upright bikes outnumbered the road bikes by about 10-1. I didn't have a whole lot of selection - and got lucky I found one that fit. I notice more road/touring bikes on the road these days, so I suspect the ratio is perhaps 4-1, but the upright bikes still outnumber the road/touring bikes substantially at least in our area - and I still only have one shop about 40 miles from home that I trust to work on my bike (after a half dozen bad experiences with the run of the mill shops that cater to upright bikes).

[BB1]

53. Try a Gazelle or a Union

That is, if you can find one. (they're both Dutch brands)

On flat surface, I'd say you'd need to ride five miles to cover one running. Uphill it's only two, I guess.

[Ms. Toad]

73. I tend to agree as to equivalence -

or even put it at 10 miles to one on flat ground - but it doesn't match with calories burned during exercise charts.

For an 8 minute mile (faster than I run) v. pedaling at 10-11.5 miles (slower than I ride), the calorie counter charts I have found put it at about three miles on a bike to one running (Of course, no reference to hills v. flat.)

On the other hand, I can ride all day and not be winded at the end, they way I would be if I had run one mile. I had a really bad summer last year for riding and didn't hop on my bike at all before my 2-day/150 mile ride and wasn't any more tired at the end of the first day than I normally am (the second day was canceled due to too many people being borderline hypothermic in the with 50 degree weather and constant rain). I can't really figure out how the calorie count is that close . . .

[sentelle]

58. I'm 6'2" and was 250 when i started

Bicycling. I would do 5 miles each way to the office and back (3.5 miles, followed by a ferry ride, followed by another 1.5 in downtown Seattle). When I stopped, after a year, I was 190. (Yes, I live in hilly terrain, the space between the ferry and my house is along a local bicycle 'fun-run' called the 'chilly-hilly').

I rode a Marin Lucas valley. Some of the things you want to look at when you buy:

If you live in hilly terrain, you will want 3 cranks (the gears on the pedal). The low gear is designed for hill climbing.

A hybrid? Unless your roads are very poorly maintained, a road bike should work fine for a commute. Don't buy anything less than $300, though. A lot of big boxes have low-end bikes made of softer metals, that will not withstand the rigors of riding more than 6 months.

Look at the roads you are travelling and choose the tires accordingly. I was happy with 35cc cyclocross tires on my 700cc rims. This gave a fairly large tire a wider tire. This makes it harder to go fast (drag and all) but on questionable roads (mine transition from asphault to dirt and asphault to gravel) it helped me keep the wheels down.

Mountain bikes (both hard tail and full suspension) tend to have smaller wider tires, and smaller cranks, which give you more control, but limit speed. Again, for roads you might not need the suspension (and remember, the suspension absorbs a little from every turn of the pedal). I think I can stand on the pedals (I.E. Get my butt off the seat) and absorb bumps just fine.

Used bikes can be just fine, provided they are in good shape.

[crimanimalz]

65. Just get a regular 10 speed that fits you.. 60cm prolly

and bring it to your local DIY bikeshop.. like this one:
http://www.bikerowave.org/

then do this:
http://www.crimanimalz.com/

[bikebloke]

66. I started with a medium range department store bike.

As I wore parts out, they were replaced with better quality parts. Through time, as I rode more often than not I started wearing out frames, too.

Now I ride a touring bike. They're built for loads, which is nice for grocery shopping. And I've trekked for long periods - once a year in the saddle.

And learn how to do some repairs. Especially fixing a puncture. It's not that hard, and will save lots of time and money, rather than hanging around bike shops.

Safety tip: Leave your music player at home. Your ears are your eyes looking behind. If you need music, you'd be surprised at the shit you start singing.:)