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With the big producers (e.g.: corn) that stuff is either quickly transformed into another product (corn meal, corn syrup, niblets, whatever). I won't get into the politics of the farm bill, but generally they feed (albeit poorly) large quantities of the population and their stuff isn't as perishable.
Alice Waters made her mark by advocating local produce (local "bounty", if you will, waffles excluded); it's great because it's fresh, but it's simultaneously highly perishable. By definition, it's confined to small producers, because otherwise you have to harvest, package, and ship all that stuff, and then you're into the bagged-lettuce market or frozen food market or whatever, which defeats the objective of buying local for maximum freshness.
The government doesn't want to subsidize tiny little places with relatively tiny little crops. It's just too much work. It's like when you work with a venture capitalist - they don't want to fund tiny little projects ("I only need $200,000") because it's just as much work to keep track of a $200k investment as it is a $20 million investment - in fact, the $20 million ones are probably easier to monitor. The gov can inspect the big agribusinesses, but there's no way they could go around to a zillion little producers of highly perishable food.
As a result, a lot of small producers (for instance, small dairy farms) go out of business or are supplanted by the big places. Good local supplies becomes just that much harder to acquire, and it costs more.
The best option for a top restaurant - everything from The French Laundy in California to a local Italian farmhouse on this coast - is to grow their own stuff. I haven't eaten at The French Laundry (I wish I could) but I have at this place over here - they run a greenhouse year-round and grow all their own herbs and veggies and whatever. That seems to be the most economical way to do it. It doesn't carry over to things like seafood, but that's another story.
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