cross post cause nobody reads that other forum . . .

[flamin lib]

http://www.democraticunderground.com/discuss/duboard.php?az=view_all&address=271x1931

[Tim01]

1. What is wrong with your '06 ?

It should be just fine for what you want to do.

[Katya Mullethov]

2. Effective for rabbits as well

A reactive target , is a good target .

[flamin lib]

5. The 06 and .223 don't belong to me. I'm storing them for my son-in-law

who will be moving here in Jan '10 and will take possession of them leaving me rifleless.

[oneshooter]

3. The 30-06 will do all that you need done

But if you just want another rifle then the 30-30 would also be a good choice. When I guide pig hunts I insist that the hunter carries a centerfire rifle/pistol. A well placed shot from any of the calibers you listed will anchor a 300+lb hog.

Oneshooter
Livin in Texas

[PavePusher]

4. Lever-action in .44 Magnum works well for short-range/heavy brush...

Short OAL, can practice with cheaper .44 Special ammo, tailoring reloads is a breeze.

[GreenStormCloud]

6. You may want to consider a holographic site.

They can be had for around $100 for a decent one, $30 for a cheapie, or $500 for a top of the line one.

[chibajoe]

8. There is really only one truly holographic sight

and that is the Eotech line of weapon sights, and they are pretty expensive. ALL of the other sights on the market are actually reflective sights, and do not give you the same benefits. Just wanted to point that out.

FWIW, I've found the new crop of 1-4x illuminated variable scopes to be extremely versatile for hunting at all ranges; the only drawback is their bulk compared to the unmagnified sights.

[benEzra]

11. Well, you get many of the same benefits,

just not quite all of them. With a collimator sight or red dot, you still get the illuminated reticle in the same plane as the target, you still have the option of selectable reticles, and so on. The holographic sight is a bit more robust in the event of lens damage, though. And you are correct that most 1x illuminated sights are not, in fact, holographic.

I agree on the utility of the 1-4x. I wish it were possible to make one as small and light as a 1x. A 1x with a flip-up magnifier theoretically appears to be a good alternative, but they are pricey and I have never had the opportunity to actually try one.

[DonP]

7. Nothing wrong with a "low tech" lever gun

More mid-sized and large game has probably been taken with an old Winchester '94 AE (Angle Eject) in 30-30 than any other cartridge out there. Pre-drilled for a scope and good balance in your hand. I've used one out to 100 yards with iron sights on deer and did fine with my aging eyes. I haven't tried the new lever action ammo (from Hornady?) with the plastic ballistic tip n 30-30 but I've read some great reports of better accuracy than with the old fashioned round nose ammo.

If you prefer, the Marlin 336 is an equally great rifle but I've never seen one factory tapped for a scope like the Winchesters are.

You can find either for $300, give or take, used at most gun shops or pawn shops. Slap a set of rings and a variable scope on, get some 30-30 core-lokt and a trigger lock and you're pretty much ready to go.

[flamin lib]

9. That's the kind of ifo I am looking for. I see som guns for sale in

the $300-350 range but have no idea if they're worth owning. I'd rather have a single shot bolt action that groups well than magazine fed gun that can't. I understand that a lot depends on the individual firearm but owner/user experience helps a lot.

Thanks!

[DonP]

10. A couple of Milsurp choices

I you can still find one the Swiss K-31s are very accurate with iron sights.

The 7.65(?) Swiss ammo can be a little hard to find, but even with a cheap ($28) little Lee Loader you can "roll your own" for a decent price and get incredible accuracy with that straight pull design.

It's a great gun and so finely machined it's more like match rifle than a battle rifle.

The Enfield No. 4 Mk I or II are also more accurate than they have any right to be, but again ammo can be the issue. But all three rifles are in your price range.

For general shooting though, the 30-30 Winchester '94 or Marlin can be a lot of fun.

Just be careful, if you leave them in the closet alone they multiply when you aren't looking. That's how I wound up with four of them so far.

[PavePusher]

14. *cough*Mosin-Nagant*cough* n/t

[DonP]

16. Yeah but ...

... It seems like he wants something for hunting - that won't set the forest on fire and trigger a Homeland Security alert with the "ball of fire" muzzle blast .

Plus he may not have the "Popeye" sized arms to work that MN bolt after one or two of the laquered cartridges melts itself into the chamber.

My 91-30s have always shot well but my M-44 has been a PITA. When I take it to the range I bring along a 15/16 box wrench to lever the bolt open about every 5 rounds or so.

[PavePusher]

17. Ssssshhhhhhh! You ruin the suprise!!! Sheeesh. 8>P n/t

[PavePusher]

19. And besides, if you keep the bayonette fixed...

It is also an effective boar spear. Which could be of great utility if you don't get a kill shot.....

[eqfan592]

20. Not to go off topic...

...but have you tried, when the bolt gets real sticky like that after shooting, taking the bolt out and cleaning it and the rifle (just the bolt area) like crazy? Often this will take care of the problem. Not trying to be insulting, just thought I'd toss it out there in case nobody ever suggested it before. The reason for the sticky bolt problem is often a thin layer of cosmoline that has dried on and around the bolt. This layer heats up during firing, and causes the bolt to become very sticky. However, when it's in this heated-up state, it is then possible to clean that layer off. Doing this over and over until the bolt doesn't stick anymore is often the only way to get rid of it.

[DonP]

21. I've cleaned the bolt like crazy

I appreciate the tip, but I've completely disassembled it several times and scrubbed every part. I even heated it up in the oven to loosen the "cosmolineski", or whatever the old Soviet equivalent is. I had to do that one when the wife was away for a long weekend at one of the daughters. Even after three days she could still smell "something" in the house. But it still wasn't as bad as the time I tried to run a load of brass in the dishwasher.

It's just some of the older surplus ammo has a thicker than average laquer coating to waterproof it. After a few rounds the barrel gets hot and if you have some of that ammo, the bolt sticks after the shot. I've never had that problem with either of my 91-30s, just the M-44. Maybe they just have more "generous" chambers. I've never had the problem with my reloads on cleaned or new brass.

I seriously bring the large box wrench to hook the box end over the M-44 bolt handle and lever it loose to extract the spent round.

[eqfan592]

22. No problem :)

Just wanted to toss that out there for ya just in case. :) I'm hoping to pick up a 91-30, but am going to have to hold off until next feb at the earliest. I just hope you can still find them for as cheap then as you can now (they still go on sale for 80 bucks at Dunhams around here every few weeks). I love mil-surp rifles :D I have the M-44 and a Swiss K-31. :)

[PavePusher]

23. Another random tip....

Disassemble bolt.
Put all parts in large, recycled food tin.
Cover with water.
Place on outdoor grill or stove, bring to boil.
Pour off top layer of melted storage "grease".
Repeat until clean.
Air dry parts, then lube appropriately.


While performing above procedure, place rifle in large black trash bag, with a rag wrapped around the muzzle.
Place barrel down in July or August Arizona sun (leaned against southfacing wall works best...).
Leave for three days.
Clean with hot water, lube appropriately.

Assemble.
Shoot.
Wipe rear-spat storage grease off glasses (you DID wear safety glasses, RIGHT?!).
Shoot some more.
When you don't have to continue wiping glasses, rifle is ready.
Clean and relube.
Keep large supply of glasses-wipes handy.

Repeat all of above as required.

Rifle will still be greasy when Ze Re-e-e-vol-uuuuuuution comes....

[OttavaKarhu]

18. Finnish M39.

Sako.

With the muzzle flash you can hunt at night. Might even scare the pig to death with it.

OK, how about a Tikka T3 Lite in .308?

Can sometimes find those used in the $300s range.

[benEzra]

12. I have heard very good things about the Savage 110 bolt-action

with the "Accutrigger" system, that is very economically priced but quite accurate. One of those in .308, .30-06, or .270 would seem to be a good, economical choice to me, though I am not a hunter. If you like the .30-06, though, then the Savage would be pretty comparable. They are common enough that you can even find them at Walmart, and certainly at your local gun shop, I suspect.

As far as the milsurp bolt-actions, be aware that for most of them, finding quality ammunition locally can be a little tricky (I mail-order 7.62x54R, personally), and it is often quite hard to mount a scope should you ever decide to. You can't beat the price, though.

[oneshooter]

13. The Savage is a very accurate out of the box rifle.

I have not played with one with the Accu- Trigger but 3/4"-1/2" 5 shot groups are fairly common.Available in all the popular calibers and with a wood or synthetic stock.

Oneshooter
Livin in Texas

[SteveM]

15. I'd keep with .270, .280, .30-'06, .308 etc. if you are shooting out to 200 yds...

As has been said, Savage rifles are not only less expensive than Win and Rem, but are at least as strong in the bolt/chamber, have very good accuracy and a "new" trigger.

Check around for a good gun smith as they often have good used rifles. Recently I came across a Savage 99 in .243 with a scope for around $370. The .243 is a little light for some, but at least a few experienced pig hunters say it is enough.

200 yards is a range most deer hunters never have to contend with (I've never had to shoot beyond 175 yds). You must have some free-ranging pigs in light brush in relatively flat country. Otherwise, an old Marlin 336 in .35 Rem. is a classic pig gun in the denser East. My older brother got that one when my Dad passed on a few years back. Most folks who are advocates of the slower, fatter rounds say the .35 has noticeably better ballistics than the .30-30. I think they are right.