Once this 14 763-square-kilometre expanse of wilderness, Zimbabwe's largest, was one of Africa's grandest showcases of wild animals. These days, Hwange National Park is exhibit A in the unfolding story of their destruction.
On a recent steamy morning perhaps 60 elephants staged a scrum at the Nyamandlovu watering hole here, jockeying frantically to get a drink of water - not from the watering hole, a porridge of mud and flopping, dying fish, but from a trickling pipe at the hole's edge.
During Hwange's long, bone-dry winter, more than two dozen pumps supply almost all the water to thousands of animals. But Zimbabwe's government has neither enough fuel to run them nor spare parts to repair the many that were broken.
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