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HEyHEY Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Dec-31-03 05:22 PM
Original message
DU photo experts -question
Okay I took pictures at a local hockey rink last night. WIth the flash looking over the glass I can get decent shots. But I want to get shots at ice-level and because of the glass it has to be taken without a flash. The roof is too high for bounce flash. I put my apature to 8 and my shutter speed at one thousand, but that work terribly. I took photography in college, but forget most of it. THe Arena is your average lit small ice rink;..... Any advice?
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bigendian Donating Member (956 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Dec-31-03 05:24 PM
Response to Original message
1. Go for the fastest film you can.
Is it possible to get the flash above the glass yet shoot from the ice level?
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HEyHEY Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Dec-31-03 05:25 PM
Response to Reply #1
2. No it's not possible
I am using 400 iso, it's about the fastest I can get in this town.
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bigendian Donating Member (956 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Dec-31-03 05:28 PM
Response to Reply #2
5. No?
Is there a pro photo shop anywhere?

You could get a long sync cord and a clamp or stand for the flash so it wouldn't be on the camera.

What kind of camera?
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HEyHEY Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Dec-31-03 05:29 PM
Response to Reply #5
6. A Nikon f-65
What would a cable like that cost?
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bigendian Donating Member (956 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Dec-31-03 05:34 PM
Response to Reply #6
7. A cheap sync cable (6 ft) is about $20.
Depending on the flash you may need an adapter.

once you do that you could also get a friend to hold the flash on an extension while you shoot.

By the way cheap cables wear out fast.
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HEyHEY Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Dec-31-03 05:35 PM
Response to Reply #7
8. thanks!
:-)
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Beaker Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Dec-31-03 05:43 PM
Response to Reply #2
12. buy your film online.
i'm sure it's available somewhere.
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GCP Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Dec-31-03 05:26 PM
Response to Original message
3. buy a faster film, 800 maybe
You should easily be able to hold the camera still enough at 120 shutter speed
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libview Donating Member (241 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Dec-31-03 05:27 PM
Response to Original message
4. Put on a cup and jump over the boards to take your picture,
then get off the ice as fast as you can before getting your ass kicked.
Does that help?
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bigendian Donating Member (956 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Dec-31-03 05:36 PM
Response to Original message
9. Are you shooting bw or color?
You can push bw and not worry about color shift. When you push film you shoot at a higher iso and extend the processing. You could shoot at 1600.
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zbird Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Dec-31-03 05:37 PM
Response to Original message
10. You can try pushing the film to a higher ISO.
Edited on Wed Dec-31-03 05:41 PM by zbird
I remember doing that in a photography course a while back. Your resolution may suffer a little bit, however. Here's a link with some info that may be helpful.

http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=2955

On edit:

Found this about color film and pushing:

Black and white negative films and color reversal films (slides) can be push processed. Color print films however have a far greater latitude than do color slide films. A color print film can be incorrectly exposed by as much as 2 stops and still produce a satisfactory print using standard processing. Also when color print films are pushed, they may develop strange color casts which are difficult to correct. For these reasons, do not attempt this technique with color print films.

http://www3.telus.net/drkrm/push-pull.htm
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Beaker Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Dec-31-03 05:41 PM
Response to Original message
11. talk to someone about getting in the bench area to take pics...
no glass to worry about.
How small-time a rink are you talking about?
I used to work at the polardome ice arena at santa's village in east dundee illinois...drove the zamboni, and worked in the pro-shop.
I used to get some good pics from above the ice, in some non-public areas.
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HEyHEY Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Dec-31-03 05:48 PM
Response to Reply #11
13. Seats 800
It's juniorhockey
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Beaker Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Dec-31-03 05:51 PM
Response to Reply #13
14. talk to a coach...try doing it at practice-
then offer to take some game shots...you never know.
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Bundbuster Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Dec-31-03 05:52 PM
Response to Original message
15. Faster film, lower aperture(f-stop), meter out on ice
1) Any photo/film store should carry Fuji 800

2) Set your aperture (manually) at its lowest number - "wide open". This will allow you to shoot at the highest possible shutter speed.

3) DON"T set camera to "automatic" functions - the white ice will throw an automatic meter into gross underexposure (too fast shutter speed). Try to go out ON THE ICE before the game and manually meter your shutter speed in sync with the manually-set lowest f-stop (aperture).

4) Press the lens directly onto the rink glass to avoid wierd distortion and flaring (be aware of players hitting the glass to avoid the lens & camera smashing your eye socket). Below is a pic from when I shot Colo. Avalanche games (without flash). Best place to shoot from is the corners, also most dangerous.

Good luck, eh?

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HEyHEY Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Dec-31-03 05:54 PM
Response to Reply #15
16. Wow thanks alot
That surely will help.
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Deja Q Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Dec-31-03 06:19 PM
Response to Original message
17. Didn't read, Bundbuster got there first. :-)
Edited on Wed Dec-31-03 06:20 PM by HypnoToad
:D
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