http://www.latimes.com/news/printedition/asection/la-fg-persian16apr16,1,962764,full.story?coll=la-news-a_sectionIraq returns to its Persian heritage
Its newly ascendant Shiites no longer have to suppress their Persian roots, which tie them closely to Iran.
By Borzou Daragahi
Times Staff Writer
April 16, 2007
NAJAF, IRAQ — Persian script laces and flows across the walls of Najaf's seminaries.
Shiite Muslim religious scholars in the ancient city's turquoise-tiled edifices bury their noses in Koranic texts illustrated with Persian calligraphy, in scenes that evoke Mesopotamia's rich history.
For centuries, Najaf has been a key shrine city and center of worship for much of Iraq's people. But for centuries, Iraq's Ottoman and Arab rulers rarely considered Najaf part of their own history. It was always considered a troublesome outpost of the enemy: Iran.
They were right, for the most part. Historically and culturally, Najaf has long been under Persia's sway.
But so has much of Iraq.
The reading of the Koran in this country differs from the rest of the Muslim world: The rhythm and cadence of Sunnis are unique to Iraq and the Shiites' are unique to Iran. Persian dishes such as fesenjan, a pomegranate stew, are a standard part of Mesopotamian fare. Even this nation's capital carries a Persian name, Baghdad.