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The islanders had recently returned after decades in nuclear exile at Ujelang and Ebeye (the "Slum of the Pacific"). I have many photgraphs of the abandoned DOE sites, and of the scarred people of the island. It was my impression (but I am not a doctor) that the returned islanders were less robust that other islanders I've met in my Pacific travels. They had way more skin lesions and appeared to be stunted, many with joint ailments and twitches that I'd not noticed elsewhere. That being said, they seemed every bit as jolly as any other islanders I've met--if a little more suspicious of Westerners.
I spent a day at Bikini also. It was still to "hot" (too much radiation) to re-occupy at that time, and I believe it remains so today, half-a-century after the tests. At one point, we flew over the site of the MIKE shot, "Mike yielded 10.4 megatons, one thousand times the yield of the Hiroshima bomb, vaporizing the island of Elugelab <one of the many islands comprising Bikini Atoll>. The crater the explosion left behind--two hundred feet deep and more than a mile across--is starkly visible...The Mike fireball alone expanded to more than three miles in diameter; its blast would have obliterated all five New York City buroughs." (from "Dark Sun: The Making of the Hydrogen Bomb", by Richard Rhodes, 1995: Simon and Schuster. Also check out "Operation Crossroads: The Atomic Tests at Bikini Atoll" by Jonathan Weisgall, 1994: Naval Institute Press)
I could clearly make out the underwater crater, and imagined the three islands that used to be there. The environmental destruction is obvious on the Atoll--replanted coconut trees, in strait rows, fail to thrive (less than 4 meters tall in most cases, and I can't recall them bearing fruit. If breadfruit trees got replanted, they sure weren't obvious to me.) Terrestrial crustaceans (sand crabs, coconut crabs) should have been abundant without human predation, but I saw none.
On the other hand, from the air I could see an outrageous number of tropical gamefishes of remarkable size cruising the lagoon. Groups of ulua averaging 20 kilos or more (In broad daylight!) made my mouth water at the chance of catching them.
Nonetheless, the experience left me with the same sort of sick feeling I felt when I visited Auschwitz (a decade before the fall of Communism). How could humans do this to their own kind, to their own environment, to their own selves?
I haven't an answer, yet.
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